Ortopvr II WI MS
Location You will find Octopussy in the Rigid Designator amphitheater in East Vail, Colorado. Elevation Gain About 120 feet, including the Seventh Tentacle Equipment Four ice screws, half a dozen quickdraws, Friends to 3 Season December through the end of March Comments Although the Seventh Tentacle varies greatly in difficulty from M6 to M7 depending on how far down the ice hangs, Octopussy itself will probably always be M8 only slightly easier when the curtain hangs down more than a few feet...
Valddtain tresse Vt
Probably the most commonly used of the variations of the French Prusik Tied with a length of cord eye-and-eye split-tail , which is smaller in diameter than the line on which it is tied Holds securely and releases easily Also used in rigging applications Essentially an asymmetric Prusik hitch Holds securely but can bind Neither as fluid nor as temperamental as a French Prusik
Rockfall hazard
Snowfields and glaciers are prime targets for rockfall from bordering walls and ridges espe cially on volcanic peaks, where the rock is often rotten and unstable. Climbers can reduce rockfall danger by wearing hard hats in hazardous areas and by timing climbs for less dangerous periods. Early-season outings usually face less rockfall than summer climbs because snow still helps cement loose rock in place. Whatever the season, the general rule for glacier climbs is early on and early off....
l EQUAM KKOT
The process of tying the knot involves a four-step procedure STEP 1 - Holding one working end in each hand, place the working end in the right hand over the one in the left hand. STEP 2 - Pull it under and back over the top of the rope in the left hand. STEP 3 - Place the working end in the left hand over the one in the right hand and repeat STEP 2. STEP 4 - Dress the knot down and secure it with an overhand knot on each side of the square knot. Checkpoints. There are two interlocking bights....
Allucinogen Wall
These two photos are of Ryan Nelson working the first free ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall, a VI 5.11 A5 put up in 1980 that went all-free at 5.13 plus some dry-tooling. Working the upper sections headpoint-style in 2004, Jared Ogden and Nelson freed multiple pitches of 5.13 face climbing, with massive runouts above aid mank, often on dubious thin edges. On the 13 th pitch, a 50-foot bolt ladder, they were getting totally shut down. Over the winter, however, the Durango pair had climbed some...
Recording Data
An accurate observation is essential in noting trends in weather patterns. Ideally, under changing conditions, trends will be noted in some weather parameters. However, this may not always be the case. A minor shift in the winds may signal an approaching storm. a. Wind Direction. Assess wind direction as a magnetic direction from which the wind is blowing. b. Wind Speed. Assess wind speed in knots. 1 If an anemometer is available, assess speed to the nearest knot. 2 If no anemometer is...
Specific Parts
A. Other than the actual meat on game there are other parts of it that can be eaten. They are the MSVX.02.09e 1. Paul Auerbach, Wilderness Medicine, 3rd Edition, 1995. 2. Larry Dean Olson, Outdoor Survival Guide, 5th Edition, 1990. 3. B-GA-217-001 PT-001, Down but not Out, Canadian Survival Guide. 4. Wilderness Way, Volume 2, Issue 1. 5. John Wiseman, SAS Survival Guide, 1993. 6. Chris Janowski, A Manual that could save your life, 1989. 7. William R. Davidson, Field Manual of Wildlife Diseases...
Ropes and Knots
Rope maybe considered the arborist's most important tool. The characteristics of a rope strength, stretch, durability, etc. are the result of the materials and techniques used to make it. To date, polyester is the material most widely used by arborists, and most commercially available climbing and rigging lines are made from this fiber. Nylon has high strength, stretch, and energy absorption but tends to lose strength when wet. Natural fibers are not generally as strong as the new, synthetic...
Coniferous Trees
Conifers are generally regarded as evergreens. They are trees that form cones hence the name and their leaves are needlelike or scalelike. They tend to have only one main leader, rarely more. The lateral limbs tending to be significantly smaller in diameter than the adjacent trunk, and grow out, or out and down rather than generally upward as is common in deciduous trees. This characteristic of having one leader frequently makes it possible to ascend all the way to the extreme top of some of...
Rope care
turners depend on ropes for safety. Know some rope do's And don'ts. do not walk on or stand on the rope, especially when wearing crampons. do not use ropes for purposes other than cuimbing. do not subject ropes to undue strain or wear, Like bouncing on a rappeu rope or positioning the rope over a sharp edge when a Less sharp position is nearby. do not use a rope in a situation it is not designed to handle. Large diameter ropes, 10.5 mm and Larger, are for rock and ice cuimbs. smauuer diameter...
Operation Of The Rappel Point
Due to the inherent dangers of rappelling, special care must be taken to ensure a safe and successful descent. a. Communication. Climbers at the top of a rappel point must be able to communicate with those at the bottom. During a tactical rappel, radios, hand signals, and rope signals are considered. For training situations use the commands shown in Table 7-1. I am on belay and you may begin your rappel. I have completed the rappel, cleared the rappel lane, and am off the rope. Notes 1. In a...
Professional Climbing Guides Institute
www.ClimbingGuideslnstitute.org P.O. Box 62 - Bishop, Ca 93514 Phone 760 937-3506 V tJ .J. mm L- J vji . V tJ .J. mm L- J vji . ABOVE ALL CLIMBING GUIDES DEVILS TOWER LODGE. Learn from the tower's most experienced veteran guide. All levels of instruction S guiding. Our 5-day intensive seminar takes your climbing to the next level. 888 314-5267 www.devilstowerclimbing.com ALASKA MOUNTAIN GUIDES AND CLIMBING SCHOOL INC. Climbing, trekking, and skiing in Alaska S the world's great ranges Alaska...
Part E Movement On Snow And Ice
When travelling over snow, and skis or snowshoes are not being used, the principles of movement over rocky terrain apply. No special techniques are required when the snow lies over a foundation of other than glacier ice and when the terrain is not steep. The success of the operation depends on proper route selection and on using procedures that reduce exertion. Movement on snow includes but is not limited to walking on low-angle slopes snow climbing on steeper angles descending security on snow...
MURK F m
Cover photographs Front Mark Twight on the Ar te des Cosmiques, Chamonix, France. Photo james Martin. Back Mark Twight on the Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France. Photo James Martin Frontispiece Crampons cooling in the Grivel factory in Courmayeur, Italy. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data TWight, Mark, 1961- Extreme alpinism climbing light, fast, and high Mark TWight and James Martin. - 1st ed. 1. Mountaineering. 2. Mountaineering Training. 3. Mountaineering-Psychological...
Advancing the Rope
If you want to go beyond the first limb, it is necessary to understand the principles involved in advancing your rope. In tree climbing, every time you set another anchor above the one that is supporting you, it is referred to as advancing that you are on to the next anchor limb. You then proceed exactly as you would if you were on the ground starting your first pitch. For some reason, this seems to be a hard thing for some newcomers to get a handle on until it is tried, but it is as simple as...
Part D Avalanche Rescue
During avalanche rescues, military operations differ slightly from civilian operations due to the number of personnel involved in the climbing parties, and the immediate available personnel left at the avalanche site. In civilian rescues only one or two surviving personnel are available due to small climbing parties. Therefore, the odds of recovering a live victim in military operations are higher than those in a civilian rescue attempt. Before undertaking glacial operations, it is mandatory to...
Aid Climbing And Pitoncraft
Aid climbing is the technique of using gear to support your weight as you climb. It can be as simple as using a bolt as a single handhold, or as complex as climbing an entire route with your full weight on pieces of specialized gear you have placed. Aid climbing is clearly a sharp departure from free climbing, where weighting the rope or the protective hardware is poor style. Free ascents are one of the goals of the sport of climbing, while aid climbing is a valuable skill for ascending...
Following the Lead
The rope directly in front of you is often at risk when you are following an ice pitch, If there is any question that you may have to place a pick close to where the rope lies, use the pick of one tool to hook the rope to the side of the tool that is in the ice, keeping it out of harm's way. Ice screws can be removed just as they were placed. Removing drive-in, screw-out ice pitons, however, usually requires some initial chopping to clear the eye for spinning. This protection is more difficult...
L Requirements For Survival
a. This positive mental mind-set is important in many ways. We usually call it the will to survive although you might call it attitude as well. This basically means that, if you do not have the right attitude, you may not survive. b. A guideline that can assist you is the acronym SURVIVAL. MSVX.02.01a 2. Maintain your wits and use your senses to determine what is happening in your immediate area of influence before making a survival plan. 1. Determine the rhythm or pattern of the area. 2. Note...
Searching with avalanche rescue beacons
The small electronic device known as an avalanche rescue beacon is the principal tool for finding buried victims. A rescue beacon can be switched to either transmit or receive signals at a set radio frequency. Rescue depends on each member of a climbing party carrying a beacon, which during the climb is left switched on to the transmit mode. Searchers switch their beacons to the receive mode to zero in on the automatic transmission from a victim. A rescuer who has taken the time to practice...
psyCHOLOglCaL TRaiNINg
The mind rules the body. Will, awareness, and understanding all improve through consistent and appropriate psychological training. Although alpinism is more a psychological than a physical challenge, there is no actual separation it is all psychological and all physical at the same time. Nonetheless, the mental aspects of alpinism are fundamental. The mind develops in response to day-to-day life. It answers the demands of living in society, in the low-altitude world. Preparing it to exist and...
Tubular Ice Screws
Depending on the quality of the ice, a well-placed tubular screw will hold from two thousand to five thousand pounds, providing excellent protection. In rotten ice, screws hold very little. Obviously, longer screws with larger diameters and deeper threads will hold better in snow-ice and rotten ice. In solid water ice, long screws are unnecessary, In practice, 90 percent of the time you can get by with screws eight to On WH npproodwi ami low-angl smew and ke, lelescttpk ski poles ere we...
Part A Climbing Ropes And Types Of Knots
No one rope is ideal for all applications. The commander must determine the situation in which ropes may be used such as urban, rock, ice, climbing, rappelling, rope installations and in what type of terrain and climate. Rope selection is affected by the following factors Fall factor measures the severity of a fall. This is calculated by dividing the length of a fall by the amount of rope paid out at the belay point. The higher the fall factor, the greater the amount of force generated. Rope...
Physical and mental conditioning
Training for an expedition involves both physical and mental preparation. For the body, emphasize cardiovascular training and strength training equally. Cardiovascular conditioning is important for physical activity at high altitudes. Powerful leg muscles are needed to walk heavy loads up the mountain, and upper-body strength is needed to hoist and carry the large expeditionary packs. Climbing itself is the best training. Climb often and in all weather conditions, carrying a heavy pack. If you...
Capturing Emotion
NYC Soho 45 Spring Street West Village 49 8th Avenue Level 3, Westfield Center, 84 5 Market Street S N FRANCISCO Stunning shots from all over except Bishop, Boulder, Rocklands, or the Red. You're welcome. Deep water soloing in Vietnam's Ha Long Bay Once upon a time on the South China Sea, invaders attacked and dragons fell from the sky. Much later, climbers invaded. and fell from the sky. By Chris Lindner Photos by Brian Solano Any climb on Canada's Baffin Island is a bit off the beaten path....
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Ten Things
Ten things you didn't know about you guessed it climbing photography Say no to posing, sharing via the web, and how to take the killer butt shot Adventure photography, beautiful Bishop, and Fryberger's CORE Rumney rehabilitator Tim Kemple, Sr. Senior Contributing Photographer Andrew Burr on life, climbing, and doing right by the little lady THIS PAGE Bryan Bird and Brody Greer somewhere in the Mojave PHOTO Eric Draper
Years Of American Rock
Since May 1970, Climbing has covered the vertical world. Here, a look back with a few twists at four decades of ascents, climbers, and ideas that shaped the flow of American rock climbing and made it what it is today. By the Editors THIS PAGE Sarah Hueniken floats Rubicon 5.10d under a mondo moon, Joshua Tree National Park, California PHOTO Andrew Burr Heidi Wirtz has always been bold on challenging rock. But after an eye-opening expedition to Pakistan, she's taking on a new challenge funding...
Leadership Challenges Peculiar To Mountain Operations
Although most leadership challenges in a temperate environment are the same in cold weather, some problems will arise which must be quickly corrected. a. Cocoon-like Existence. Many men, when bundled up in successive layers of clothing and with their head covered by a hood, tend to withdraw within themselves and to assume a cocoon-like existence. When so clothed, the individual's hearing and field of vision are greatly restricted and he tends to become oblivious to his surroundings. His mental...
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Part A Operations On Alpine Paths And Handlines
Fixed alpine paths are constructed when the unit will remain in one area for a long time, or to assist troops in traversing rugged mountain terrain, ascending or descending steep mountain slopes, and carrying combat equipment or supply loads up to 50 pounds. Paths should be constructed to allow movement in both directions at the same time, and so that casualties can be evacuated over them on litters. Description. A fixed alpine path can include steps cut into the ground or into the ice or snow,...
Min USE OF THE GRAPNEL
A five point grapnel can be useful in steep earth climbing. With its twenty feet of knotted cord, it provides handholds where there may otherwise be none. Short, sheer faces and overhangs have fewer holds, thus providing ideal situations for grapnel use. d To use the grapnel, the climber unwinds his grapnel line, secures it to himself, then throws it above himself over a ledge, cliff edge, or other near horizontal feature. Care must be taken to throw it to one side or the other so that if it...
Mind Marathon
Let us livejor the beauty of our o m reality. The Chink, from the novel Even Cowgirls Get the Blues, by Tom Robbins Late one winter, Bill Johnson, a staff writer for Sporls illustrated, called me long distance. Would you be willing to do some ice climbing for an article we have in mind he asked. An image of a solitary figure high on a frozen waterfall popped into my head. Sure, said, if 1 can choose the climb. No problem there, replied Bill. So we made arrangements to meet at the end of March...
pHySICaLTRaiNINg a FOUNDSTION
Alpine climbers need maximum power from both mind and body. They train the mind to increase awareness and grit, and the body to augment strength and endurance. The goal of physical training for alpine climbing can be summed up in one phrase to make yourself as indestructible as possible. The harder you are to kill, the longer you will last in the mountains. Mountain climbing beats on you with dehydration, inadequate nutrition, debilitating cold, energy- and judgment-sapping high altitude, sleep...
Tying In
The choice of where to tie in is very important. Generally, it is desirable to pick a high, central location in the tree. This allows freedom of movement and easy access to most points in the tree. The higher the tie-in figure 4.19 The higher the tie-in point, the farther the climber can move out on the limbs. It is easiest to work when tied in directly above the working area. It is very important not to tie in to a crotch that would allow a swing toward power lines in the event of a slip or...
Military Mountaineering Contents
CHAPTER 1. MOUNTAIN TERRAIN, WEATHER, AND HAZARDS Section I. Mountain 1-3. Rock and Slope 1-4. Rock 1-5. Mountain 1-6. Route 1-7. Cross-Country 1-8. Cover and 1-10. Fields of Section II. Mountain 1-11. Considerations for 1-12. Mountain 1-16. Cloud 1-17. Types of 1-20. Weather 1-21. Recording Section III. Mountain 1-22. Subjective 1-23. Objective 1-24. Weather 1-25. Avalanche DISTRIBUTION RESTRICTION Approved for public release distribution is unlimited. This publication supersedes TC 90-6-1,...
Mountaineering
1960, 1967, 1974, 1982, 1992 by The Mountaineers All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher. 1001 SW Klickitat Way, Seattle, Washington 98134 Published simultaneously in Canada by Douglas amp Mclntyre, Ltd., 1615 Venables Street, Vancouver, B.C. V5L2H1 Published simultaneously in Great Britain by Swan Hill Press, 101 Longden Road, Shrewsbury SY3 9EB, England...
Northern Mountain Supply
Ph 707 445-1711 TF 800 878-3583 Fax 707 445-0781 125 W, Fifth St., Eureka, CA 95501 www.northernllghtstrading.com 1716 West Babcock Bozeman, MT 59715 866 586-2225 406 586-2225 www.RockCreek.com lnfo rockcreekcom TF 888 707-6708 Ph 423 266-8200 100 Tremont Majka Burhardt ascends Stairway to Heaven, San .luan Mnuntains, Colorado Removable dual compartment top pochet with spindrift collar Three position Hlip bufigee tool tie-offs Rope compression Removable Three point haul bwy'sit 1
Rock Classifications
Rock is classified by origin and mineral composition. a. Igneous Rocks. Deep within the earth's crust and mantle, internal heat, friction and radioactive decay creates magmas melts of silicate minerals that solidify into igneous rocks upon cooling. When the cooling occurs at depth, under pressure, and over time, the minerals in the magma crystallize slowly and develop well, making coarse-grained plutonic rock. The magma may move upward, propelled by its own lower density, either melting and...
Standard versus Speed Climbing A Comparison
Speed climbing, paradoxically, does not necessarily involve physically climbing faster. By using special techniques to minimize the time you aren't actually climbing, you can ascend routes much faster not by moving faster, but by moving continuously. Below is a graph of elevation versus time for two different climbs up the Yellow Spur in Eldorado Springs Canyon. The longer time line is of a conventional ascent I did with my friend Mark Oveson. We swung leads on the route, as a standard climbing...
Sport Climbing
Most of the techniques described above will stand you in good stead for sport climbs. On sport climbs no one is responsible for maintaining fixed protection, and even though bolt failure is extremely rare it can happen. There is also the possibility of rock fall or holds snapping, and taking a fall on any climb can result in injury. The tops of most sport climbs have two belay bolts to lower off from. Sometimes they are linked with a chain, which should be checked for corrosion, but in Britain...
Simuldimbing
Most of the time when you're simul-climbing, you're running it out a bit. You do this to conserve gear and because the terrain should be relatively moderate for you otherwise you shouldn't be simul-climbing at all . The sole reason to simul-climb is so you and your partner can move at the same time. This is only valuable when climbing more than a single pitch, and simul-climbing frequently involves running many pitches together as one giant pitch. When Hans and Jim Herson set the speed record...
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Other mechanical systems
Several mechanical rappel systems require no special device, just a locking carabiner. It can be worthwhile insurance to learn at least one of them. To set up the carabiner wrap system fig. 8-7 , clip a locking carabiner into the locking carabiner or doubled carabiners that are clipped to your seat harness. Run the rappel rope through the outer end of the outside carabiner, and wrap it around the carabiner's solid back, giving it more turns if you want more friction. Two turns are usually just...
Footholds
Climbers use most footholds by employing one of two techniques, edging or smearing. On many holds, either technique will work, and the one to use depends on your own preference and type of footwear. We'll take up a third technique, called the foot jam, in a later section. In edging, the edge of the boot or rock shoe is placed over the hold fig. 9-5a . You can use either the inside or outside edge, but the inside is usually preferred for greater ease and security. The ideal point of contact may...
Part D Types Of Pitons And Piton Hammers
A piton is a metal pin that is hammered into a crack in the rock. It is described by its thickness, design, and length and provides a secure anchor for a rope that may be attached by a snaplink Figure 2-38 . There are four configurations used by the U.S. Army. They are the vertical, horizontal, wafer, and angle, which are made of either malleable or hardened steel, and alloys. The strength of the piton is determined more by its placement rather than its rated tensile strength. There are two...
Cornices
The shape of a ridge crest helps determine the extent of cornice-building fig. 12-41 . A ridge that slopes on one side and breaks into an abrupt cliff on the other is a good candidate for a gigantic cornice. A knife-edge ridge or one gentle on both sides will have only a tiny cornice, if any at all. When the physical features are right for building cornices, wind direction decides their exact location. Because storm winds have definite patterns in each mountain range, most cornices in the same...
Role of the Ground Worker
Ground workers are an essential part of a rigging operation they set up friction devices, run lines, detach ropes, and send equipment and lines up to the climber. Safety is dependent on good communication between the climber and the ground workers. The landing zone drop zone is the area beneath the tree where pieces are to be dropped or lowered. There must be a clear and efficient means of communication between climbers and ground workers so that each knows when it is safe for a ground worker...
Climbing Magazine
2291 Arapahoe Avenue Boulder, CO 80302 Phone 303 225-4628 Fax 303 417-1371 Subscriber Services Within US 800 829-5895 Customer Email climbing emailcustomerservice.com Contributors Visit climbing.com contribute Retailers To carry Climbing Magazine and Climbing Magazine publications in your shop, contact Liz Warden 1-800-381-1288 x6047. MOST OF THE ACTIVITIES DEPICTED HEREIN CARRY A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. Rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and...
Shovel
A broad-bladed shovel is a utility and safety tool for snow travel fig. 12-13 . It's the only practical tool for uncovering an avalanche victim. Shovels are also used for digging snow shelters and leveling off tent platforms and have even been used as a climbing tool to shovel a pathway up a particularly snowy route. A good snow shovel has a blade large enough to move snow efficiently and a handle long enough for good leverage but short enough for use in a confined area. It should strap easily...