Classic Climbs
Bishop's Terrace I 5,8 , Church Bowl, Yosemite Valley, California, A bri liant splitter experience in the granite crucible 70 TECH TIPS Trad Munter madness, from beginner to advanced Rope Management Proper rope management for safer climbing 75 MILEAGE Explore piles of trad, sport, and bouldering on California's dreamy Central Coast 78 REVIEWS Adaptation, the life of Andy Parkin Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier Beyond the Basics Arno llgner is back with Espresso Lessons from the Rock...
Years Of American Rock
Since May 1970, Climbing has covered the vertical world. Here, a look back with a few twists at four decades of ascents, climbers, and ideas that shaped the flow of American rock climbing and made it what it is today. By the Editors THIS PAGE Sarah Hueniken floats Rubicon 5.10d under a mondo moon, Joshua Tree National Park, California PHOTO Andrew Burr Heidi Wirtz has always been bold on challenging rock. But after an eye-opening expedition to Pakistan, she's taking on a new challenge funding...
Northern Mountain Supply
Ph 707 445-1711 TF 800 878-3583 Fax 707 445-0781 125 W, Fifth St., Eureka, CA 95501 www.northernllghtstrading.com 1716 West Babcock Bozeman, MT 59715 866 586-2225 406 586-2225 www.RockCreek.com lnfo rockcreekcom TF 888 707-6708 Ph 423 266-8200 100 Tremont Majka Burhardt ascends Stairway to Heaven, San .luan Mnuntains, Colorado Removable dual compartment top pochet with spindrift collar Three position Hlip bufigee tool tie-offs Rope compression Removable Three point haul bwy'sit 1
Revisiting Buoux
FRANCE, LIMESTONE, POCKETS TIME FOR A SECOND LOOK colin goodey and the great slate debate adam henry adam ondra state parks closure rope technique munter madness california central coast cragging BISHOP'S TERRACE life and death on WERK SUPP guest editor jeff achey and more PRINTED ON 100 RECYCLED PAPER A CARBON-NEUTRAL MAGAZINE issue No. 1 of Climbing, Yep, we burst out of the gate in full black-and-white, turning heads with this sweet butt shot taken at Garden of the Gods, Colorado Props to...
Leading Since 1
got his start climbing and reading Climbing when CD EE AlOT O fi he was just 11 years old, at a gym in California. He's since ntt'OULUlO I J r become renowned for his preternatural ability to keep his Ol IK ID CD POni I n fC S C00' on su per-committing solos, such as that of Moonlight OLIIVlDtn, DUUVx LUy tn, Buttress 5.12d, 9 pitches , in Zion, and the Regular North-plQ Q m ft Qjp west Face of Half Dome VI 5,12a, 23 pitches , in Yosemite. Daniel Woods holding the crux swing on The Game,...
Siie Must Appreciate
the boulders and talus lay tiny and surreal, like grains of sand almost 2,000 feet below. Above, stacked, fang-like blocks guarded a roof that looked super gnarly, Wirtz breathed cold, alpine air, with an odor distinctly granite then shimmied, legs aquiver. Her blue eyes turned upward. She flashed a toothy smile and, finding her roots, committed to the unknown. Wirtz fired the 5.11 offwidth through a roof one of the route's most memorable pitches. On pitch 1 1, a long, smooth, 5.1 1 dihedral...
mountaingearcomdimbing
president and founder, The Masochist Society If you climb because you love pain, this isn't the harness for you. The Petzl SAMA failed to itch, chafe, scrape or cause pain in our intensive testing sessions. The harness incorporates breathable mesh in both the waist belt and leg loops inside a lightweight frame, taking all the fun and pain out of climbing. The sweat and raw skin that we've come to rely on from snug-fitting harnesses has all but vanished, making this gear utterly useless to pain...
S Sporting Life
BY MAI I SAM I LLUSTRA1 ON BY MIKl TEA A day in the life of America's most heinous cragging couple Editor's Note To stay current with the climbing populace, we occasionally have field reporters observe and report on climber behavior. Recently we sent an intrepid contributing editor CE to Shelf Road, a popular limestone sport destination in southern Colorado, Although he went missing under suspicious circumstances, we were able to recover his notes and tape recorder some weeks later, scattered...
Cliff Drive Kansas City Climbing Guide
WITH A BENT TOWARDS STEEP, TECHNICAL CLIMBS, THE VAPOR V'S BI-TENSION RAN DING AND DYNAMIC FIT WILL DELIVER MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE TIME AND TIME AGAIN. Heidi Wirtz jamming 5.11 with jammed-knot pro, Adrspach-Teplice spires, Czech Republic. PHOTO Topher Donahue Heidi Wirtz jamming 5.11 with jammed-knot pro, Adrspach-Teplice spires, Czech Republic. PHOTO Topher Donahue LEFT A climber circumnavigates a hanging block wedged in The Great Chimney 55 , Otter Cliffs, Acadia National Park, Maine. PHOTO...
Years Of Climbing Magazine
Welcome to the 40th Anniversary issue of Climbing-woo hoo In a nostalgic mood, I rifled through some of my oldest files, until behind some battered wall topos and faded photographs, I unearthed my first magazine correspondence, circa 1980. No email here these letters were hand-typed-as in, on a typewriter- with xxx-ed typos, and Inked-in spelling corrections, and signed in pen. One was from Mountain magazine, out of the U.K., which was considered the most serious climbing-news source of the...
Story And Photos By Tom Slater 1
Ken Klis receives a very nice Edgeucation 5.11c , high up on Bishop Peak, San Luis Obispo. Ken Klis receives a very nice Edgeucation 5.11c , high up on Bishop Peak, San Luis Obispo. Cragging along California's Central Coast TO MOST, CALIFORNIA'S CENTRAL COAST is a refreshing kaleidoscope of green vineyards, twisted oaks, and round, open hills between Los Angeles and San Francisco. But to climbers, it's a secret hideaway with dozens of crags. The Central Coast has some of the state's best, most...
Stone Into Wood
A Washington climber's hand-carved rock panoramas Through a process called intarsia, Sherri Lewis creates one-of a-kind wood murals, like this one called Red Rocks Sunset, to commemorate memorable climbing trips. Through a process called intarsia, Sherri Lewis creates one-of a-kind wood murals, like this one called Red Rocks Sunset, to commemorate memorable climbing trips. NOTHING COMMEMORATES an unforgettable climbing trip like a hard drive full of digital photos, but let's be real how many of...
Mammoth Mountaineering Supply
3189 Main St., Next to Wave Rave Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546 Ph 760 934-4191 www.mammothgear.com MARMOT MOUNTAIN WORKS 3049 Adeline St. Berkeley, CA 94703 510 849-0735 800 627-6689. for other locations go to www.mar-motmountain.com 405 W. Grand Ave, Escondido, 760 747-8223 28780 D-1 Old Town Fron St., Temecuia, 951 693-4670 54415 N Circle Dr., Idyilwild, 951 659-4853, 61795 29 Palm5 Hwy Joshua Tree, 760 366-4684 info nomadventures.com, www.nomadventures.com
Buoux
Revisiting France's Crag of the 1980s Once upon a time in Europe and perhaps this is still true today the most gifted climbers battled for one crown to climb a route that no other couid repeat. In that age of dreaming, beginning in the early 1980s, the rules that had defined the sport were cast happily and carelessly to the wind. No longer was a climber required to lower after each failed attempt, or to only install fixed protection from the ground up. French climbers dreamt of the impossible...
Climbing Fiction
The climbing world is rich with plot, action, and characters, often elucidated in the niche genre of climbing fiction. It's a niche where few succeed, maybe because, as the author Jeff Long put it, Where does fiction belong in a sport that almost defies fiction SNH B BUM Hilt Nil I I OF MB SHI If IOn Christmas Eve 1977, a Lockheed Lodestar plane crashed into a lake in Yosemite National Park's backcountry. When authorities located the crash site, the plane and its cargo of marijuana bales were...
To Fight Breast Ganger 1
TO SUCCEED IN THE STRUGGLE AGAINST BREAST CANCER WE NEED YOUR HELP AND STAMINA. JOIN A CLIMB TO FIGHT BREAST CANCER TEAM AND HELP RAISE FUNDS TO SUPPORT OUR MISSION TO FIND A CURE. FOR DETAILS AND REGISTRATION VISIT FHCRC.ORG CLIMB Proceeds benefit breast cancer research at Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. Gimte on Baker, Derail Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Rainier and the Volcanoes of Mexico are guided by Alpine Ascents International. Climbs on Baker are conducted under special use permit...
Contributors
Topher Donahue, Craig DeMartino, Tom Slater, and Beth Wald 12 EDITORIAL Forty years of Climbing Magazine 14 LETTERS 18 JUST OUT Celebrate the thaw with sweet new schwag 20 HOT FLASHES Daniel Woods gives us the lowdown on America's first V16 more 22 THE HAULBAG A hairball belay sesh on the Bachar-Yerian a Washington artist turns rocky vistas into wooden works Overheard more 24 OFF THE WALL Colin Goodey and the great slate debate 28 TEN THINGS Daddy Loves You A day in the life of America's most...
Colin Goodey
COLIN GOODEY, 74, a native of Penmaenmawr, in North Wales, has climbed for six decades. Untti now, he never really made headlines, though in the 1950s Goodey pioneered the limestone on the Great Orme, in Llandudno. He also clocked a few notable first ascents in the 1960s, such as Great Wall E3 5C , at Craig y Forwen, and Vulcan E2 5C , at Tremadoc. Today, in North Wales' Snowdonia mountains, Goodey has found fame and infamy in equal parts due to his bolting practices. He's added a host of...