William's Climbing Guides

Rope care

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turners depend on ropes for safety. Know some rope do's And don'ts.

{ do not walk on or stand on the rope, especially when wearing crampons.

{ do not use ropes for purposes other than cuimbing.

{ do not subject ropes to undue strain or wear, Like bouncing on a rappeu rope or positioning the rope over a sharp edge when a Less sharp position is nearby.

{ do not use a rope in a situation it is not designed to handle. Large diameter ropes, 10.5 mm and Larger, are for rock and ice cuimbs. smauuer diameter ropes are for snow cuimbs. smauu diameter ropes can be doubled to use them where Large diameter ropes are required.

{ do know the history of a rope's use. discontinue use of ropes that are worn or are known to have taken a number of hard fans.

{ do uooseuy coil ropes for storage and hang them in a dry puace. do not store ropes on a potentially damp surface, Like cement. do not Leave ropes tightuy corned, do keep ropes away from solvents, oils, stoves, fire and heat. do wash soiled ropes and hang them to dry.

use this Rope- IS

coil, wweisi

PReavjeMrLy coil, wweisi

PReavjeMrLy

use TrtiS

Cou-

Long

Hauling.

use TrtiS

Cou-

Long

Hauling.

weather mountains make their own weather, so conditions can change rapiduy and be severe. if you do not Like the weather when cuimbing, then wait ten minutes. if you are stiuu not injured as a result of the weather, then things are going great, right?

ÖOWLulE

Knots

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The figure-eight and the bowiine are used for the same purposes, for exampie, to tie the main rope into the harness. The bowiine is rareiy used because the figure-eight is easier for most peopie to inspect visuaiiy to verify it is tied correctiy.

The fisherman's knot is used to tie smaii ropes, iike a prusik rope, into a ioop. a simpie overhand knot is preferred to the fisherman's knot when tying iarge ropes together, for exampie, to

Fisherman'S KNOT"

PRUSIK . . MOT

main rope whiie ioaded with weight.

create a iong rarrei rope.

The prusik knot is used to tie a prusik ioop to the main rope. When tight the prusik knot wiii not siide on the main rope. When ioose it wiii siide. For this reason the prusik is used to create a movabie anchor point on the main rope. Be aware the prusik knot is not seif-tightening. The prusik rope wiii burn through quickiy if aiiowed to siide on the

The water knot is used to tie tubuiar webbing into ioops. The water knot iooks iike an overhand knot except that the second end of webbing is traced backwards through the first overhand knot.

wateç^ knot

Harnesses

ALTHOUCH SEAT HArNESSES ArE COMMErCIALLy AVAILAbLE, SOMETIMES IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW HOW TO MAKE A HARNESS FROM 1" Or LARCEr TUbULAr WEbbINC. TWO VARIATIONS ON SEAT HARNESSES ARE SHOWN HERE. CHEST HARNESSES ARE ALSO COMMONLy USEd FOR CLACIEr TRAVEL. IN A RESCUE SITUATION THE RESCUER MICHT NEEd TO CREATE HARNESSES FOR THE bACK, NECK ANd HEAd.

dlkpetf^ sukg

1-INCH W&BBlNS TIED CUPPED IN A LOOP WlTlA A -TOGElrtE^WITW Vj(\TGf2. KN&Y. CMABltfERS.

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